Bonnes-Mares 2019 from Olivier Bernstein, the Beaune micro-négociant known for a tight range of Côte de Nuits grand crus. The 2019 comes from vines on the Chambolle side of the vineyard.
About This Wine
Bonnes-Mares covers about 15 hectares above the grand cru road, straddling Morey-Saint-Denis and Chambolle-Musigny. Its soils split between red clay (Terres Rouges) and white marl (Terres Blanches), and Bernstein's vines sit on the Chambolle side. 2019 was the hottest vintage he had seen, with three heatwaves, but his old, deep-rooted vines kept the wine balanced. Early tasters found it dark-fruited and firm at the core, with enough tannin to need time.
Tasting Profile
- Nose: Black and red cherry, violet, crushed rock and some toasted oak.
- Palate: Pure and fairly lean, with dark fruit over a firm mineral core.
- Finish: Long and fine, still tannic, with floral and mineral notes.
Serving & Food
Give it a two-hour decant and serve at 16°C in a large Burgundy bowl. Best from around 2025 onwards, with a long life ahead. Try it with roast grouse, Peking duck, or beef Wellington.
How to Enjoy
A grand cru to lay down, or to open with a game dinner once the tannins have settled.
Product Details
Producer: Olivier Bernstein
Appellation: Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
Region: Burgundy, France
Vintage: 2019
Grape: Pinot Noir
Format: 750mL
About the Maison
Olivier Bernstein came to wine after another career, studying viticulture and oenology in Beaune. Working the 2002 harvest at Domaine Emmanuel Rouget brought him into contact with the late Henri Jayer, an experience he credits as formative.
He then bought a small estate, Mas de la Devèze, in Tautavel in the Roussillon, to learn the practical side of growing and making wine. In 2007, at 40, he returned to Burgundy and launched his house with premier and grand cru wines only, and the first vintage was reviewed favourably by Jancis Robinson and Allen Meadows.